Hyaluronic acid in cosmetics

/hyaluronan

Hyaluronic acid (HA, also called hyaluronan) is a linear polysaccharide consisting of two regularly alternating monosaccharides (D-glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine).

Hyaluronic acid is naturally present in human tissues (e.g. in skin, ligament, main artery, tendon, valve, or synovial fluid) where it serves as a connective tissue organiser and water holding substance. HA is found in both layers of the skin – in both the dermis and the epidermis, where it has a protective, structure stabilizing and shock-absorbing function. The total amount of hyaluronan in human skin is estimated to be about a third of the total amount of hyaluronic acid in the entire human body. As we age, the content of hyaluronan in the skin decreases, which may contribute to loss of freshness, hydratation, moisture and elasticity in the skin and the development of wrinkles. This is resolved by adding commercially produced hyaluroni acid to cosmetic products. Its ability to penetrate the skin and unique moisturizing and viscoelastic properties make the skin softened and restore its elasticity thereby a significant antiwrinkle effect is achieved. Hyaluronic acid can be formulated in various cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, serums, shampoos, conditioners, bath oils, foundations, lipsticks or lip balms. Cosmetic products containing hyaluronan may also protect the skin against UV irradiation due to the free radical scaveging properties of HA.

Although the main role of hyaluronic acid in cosmetics is as a highly effective humectant (moisturizer), it is also an ideal biomaterial for medical and pharmaceutical applications because of its strong biocompatibility, non-imunogenicity and biodegradability. The physicochemical properties of HA depend on the size of its molecule. HA may be used for the supplementation of joint fluid in arthritis, as a surgical aid in eye surgery, or as an injectable gel which can be use as a filler to remove wrinkles in cosmetic surgery. HA's water-binding property is also used in the wound healing process. HA is a compound to facilitate the healing and regeneration of surgical wounds. It covers, cleans and protects a wound and provides a moist wound environment.

HA has also been studied as a drug delivery agent for various routes of administration, including ophtalmic, nasal, pulmonary, parenteral and topical.

As mentioned above, hyaluronic acid can be injected into the dermis to reduce facial lines and wrinkles as well as scars for longer than when common cosmetic products are applied. There is also better tolerability compared with the use of collagen.

Hyaluronic acid can also be orally administered as capsules. It is expected to have a durable effect, retaining moisture in the skin from inside the body.

Hyaluronic acid in Contipro Biotech is obtained biotechnologicaly by fermentation of a selected Streptococcus spp. bacterial strain, therefore the product is free of contaminants such as glycosaminoglycans and proteins of animal origin.

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